The Cartagena Journals: Zumba and a Chiva Bus

Live from the Miami Airport! I’m headed to Cartagena, Colombia, but doctor’s orders prevent me from having any fun. No drinking, swimming, or sex. I’m pretty sure that mud volcano is off limits as well. I’m not complaining about being unable to visit that mud volcano, though, because I never really wanted to do it anyway. It just seemed disgusting and a cesspool of bacteria with everyone’s bodily fluids. Still, how am I supposed to be on holiday without liquor? I think I might just take my chances after a few days.


My flight arrived three hours late, so I didn’t have any time to get acclimated to the city. I went directly to my Airbnb in the Getsemani neighborhood of Cartagena, settled into my room, got money out of the ATM around the corner, and accepted an invite to Zumba in the park with my Airbnb host. When we arrived to Plaza Trinidad in Getsemani for Zumba, it was filled with locals and tourists. I hadn’t taken a Zumba class since college, and I was certain my moves weren’t up to par, but I was going to try anyway. I made it through three songs before I decided the moves were getting a bit too advanced for me. I gave up and watched the regulars do their thing for nearly two hours. Once it ended, I took the short walk back to my Airbnb and got some rest for the next day.

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A Desert Safari in Dubai

A Desert Safari in Dubai

As a first-time visitor to Dubai, I was adamant about including a desert safari on my itinerary. I went with Platinum Heritage based on a personal recommendation from a friend, but it was one of the more expensive tour options. There were several companies that offered these safaris, many of which could be found on Groupon, Viator, and Cobone. I wasn’t interested in the adventure of dune bashing or sand boarding, and preferred a more authentic experience in the desert. Platinum Heritage offered that, so I have no regrets about choosing them.

I received an email from them the morning of my tour that provided the exact pickup time from my hotel. When I arrived at my hotel lobby, the guide was there already waiting for me. He guided me to a Ford Expedition, where there was another guest inside. We all went to another hotel to pickup four other guests, so our group included six people and a personal guide. We rode about 40 minutes to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, and received a swag bag with a refillable water bottle for the day. We took a short break to don headscarves to protect our faces from the desert sand. From there, we transferred from the Ford Expedition to a vintage Land Rover and began our drive through the Arabian Desert.

A Desert Safari in Dubai with Platinum Heritage

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A Day Trip to Abu Dhabi

A Day Trip to Abu Dhabi

For whatever reason, none of the tour companies I researched offered day trips from Dubai to Abu Dhabi that included a visit to the Louvre. A trip to Abu Dhabi without seeing the recently-opened Louvre was a dealbreaker for me, so I decided to visit the city on my own. The wealthy version of me that doesn’t exist wanted to use a private driver, but the actual factual Jessica had to get around via public transportation.

I started early in the morning from my hotel in Downtown Dubai and took the metro down to Ibn Battuta Bus Station for 5 AED. From there, I hopped on a bus to the Abu Dhabi Central Bus Station for 25 AED. From there, I crossed the street and waited 15 minutes for the #94 bus that took me on a lengthy ride to the Louvre for 2 AED. The ride allowed me to view a bit of the city, which was not as stunning in appearance as Dubai. Abu Dhabi tends to be more conservative than Dubai, and it was easy to see.

Including me, there were about six people who got off at the Louvre bus stop. All of them were Louvre employees except for me. At first glance, the place was dead and there were no other people at the site. As I got to the entrance, I realized that there was another parking area and there actually were quite a few visitors there to indulge in the art and architecture. Continue reading

Dubai: A Long Time Coming

Dubai is the reason I began my journey of international solo travel. It all started on a warm Louisiana Christmas Day in 2014, when something known in history books as Christmasgate occurred. Etihad Airlines, one of the “big three” gulf carriers along with Emirates and Qatar Airways, had an unheard of “glitch fare.” They were pricing flights from the U.S. to Abu Dhabi for less than $200, and I wanted to be in that number when the saints went marching in. It can be difficult to get to the next state for $200, so that was mind-blowing for me. Adding to that, there were no blackout dates. Typically expensive travel holidays like Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years were available!

I wasn’t a member of any travel groups back then, so I don’t even remember how I found out about it. I sent a message out to all my friends to see who was coming. No one took the bait. A few responses were positive, but no one actually booked. I got pissed because I knew this was a once in a lifetime airfare. I considered going solo but I had not yet developed comfort with the idea of solo travel. The fare lasted for several hours before it ended, and I regrettably did not book.

It was at that point that I realized I couldn’t sit around waiting for someone to travel with me. The world would go by and I’d still be sitting at home waiting for a travel partner to make up her mind. Never was I going to allow someone else to decide my travel fate. Exploring the world didn’t require another person, and I wasn’t going to miss out on another journey because I didn’t have a travel partner. It was then that I began my journey to solo travel. It took me a while, but I traveled solo to the country of Panama for the first time eight months later. I didn’t even take the time to ask those same friends if they’d like to join because I knew I would have been disappointed. Years later I still get upset when I reflect on that missed opportunity to travel to the Emirates. How could I have allowed my travel life to be dictated by others?

There has been lowered pricing since then, but nothing as good as the Christmasgate pricing. Every damn person that was interested in travel and interested in UAE took their trips while I sat at home twiddling my fingers.

My interest in the country waned after seeing so many people post pics of their visits. Plus, my travel tastes had changed over time and I didn’t think I would enjoy a place like Dubai with all of its glitz and assumed pretentiousness.

When I began planning my annual birthday trip, I decided I wanted to go to Egypt, and was considering another country to add to the trip. I narrowed it down to UAE. I wasn’t even excited about it, and tried to fit in Jordan instead before I decided on the Emirates.

And I went. Continue reading

A Travel Nightmare in Cairo

Getting around Cairo in a car was an experience. No city that I have visited thus far would compare. Most of the street lanes were unlined, and drivers somehow turned two lanes into four. Cars were going in the wrong direction, and it didn’t appear that anyone obeyed the light signals. Honking was continuous, and traffic was around-the-clock. Donkey carriages and pedestrians battled with cars for the right of way, and small scooters squeezed between cars and sped ahead. I was amused by it all. Thankfully, I had a skilled personal driver included in my tour of Cairo, so everything went as smoothly as it could have in a city of 20 million people where four million cars are on the road. Things were hectic, but I felt safe in the back seat with my driver handling it all.

On my last day in Cairo, I had a free day to explore on my own. I decided to spend my day in the Zamalek district visiting a few art galleries, doing a bit of shopping, and having a nice dinner with Nile River views. Uber and Careem were available in Cairo, so I used those apps to get to Zamalek instead of a regular taxi since I feared getting ripped off or having to argue forcefully with a regular taxi. Careem seemed to take longer to arrive, so I used Uber both times.

On the way to Zamalek, I had to close my eyes and believe I would make it to my destination unscathed. It was a long and excruciating drive from my hotel in Giza. At some point the driver entered onto this weirdly designed ramp that looked like it was a one-way. I stared ahead confusedly as he drove up the curved ramp only to see two large trucks speeding down the ramp toward us. I immediately realized the reason the ramp looked like it was weirdly designed. We were ENTERING the highway from the one-way EXIT ramp. Had we gone in the right direction, it would have looked perfectly normal. Somehow, we avoided a collision and the driver entered onto the main highway and proceeded like we didn’t almost die.

That wasn’t even the worst of it. Continue reading

Interactions in Cairo

Interactions in Cairo

The hustle in Cairo is no joke! Be careful.

That was the warning I heard constantly from others who had previously visited the city. They told me stories of Egyptians pretending to assist them, then flipping the script and demanding large sums of money for doing almost nothing. Hustles were at the airport, restaurants, tourist sites, souks, and hotels. I couldn’t trust the children. If I handed over my camera to get anyone to take a photo of me, I might not get it back without having to pay a large fee. Painted wood and other cheap materials were being passed off as authentic alabaster. There would be a fee to use the bathroom in the airport. They would attempt to charge entry fees multiple times for places that should be free.  I was expecting people to be rude, aggressive, and aggravating.

Part of me understood. Egypt relies heavily on tourism, but the impact of terrorism has plummeted the industry. The media coverage hasn’t been positive since the Revolution. Many people in the tourism industry weren’t able to support themselves and their families in the same way they previously could. Tourism was down, but those bills didn’t stop. Money needed to come by any means necessary. My tour guide dealt with the questions of safety so much, he started his own #EgyptIsSafe campaign to attract visitors.

With all of those warnings in the back of my head, I walked off the plane wearing my resting bitch face in preparation for the shenanigans that would ensue. In addition to this, I had lots of single dollar bills for tips in my wallet. The concept of handing over money for the most ridiculous reasons wouldn’t feel so annoying since I added “tipping for existing” to my budget.

My interactions in Cairo were mostly pleasant, but I won’t pretend it was all great. When I left my hotel on the first day to buy juice and snacks at the convenience store a few blocks away, I was followed by a man who was trying to get my attention. Continue reading

Welcome to Egypt

It took me three hours to make it out of Cairo’s airport. It was the longest time I have ever spent upon arrive in an airport, and an unexpected reality after traveling for 21 hours. My Emirates flight arrived from Dubai at 11:45 PM, and several other international flights landed within an hour of that time. That meant there were hundreds of people gathered in lines trying to get through immigration. It doesn’t appear that Cairo’s airport has established a method to expedite this process, but there was a separate line for diplomats and other VIPs that had zero wait time. There were over 30 lanes available, but only five officers working. I felt like I was at Walmart.

The wifi in the airport is limited to 30 minutes, and one has to provide an access code that is sent via text in order to connect. Well, my phone was not working in Cairo at all so there was no way for me to receive a text with a code that would allow me to connect to the airport wifi for 30 minutes in order to let my driver know that things were moving very slow at passport control. I was so afraid that he would leave after assuming I didn’t show up. Then I would have to fend for myself and negotiate a taxi to my hotel, a thought that gave me anxiety. Continue reading

A Day Trip to Quilotoa Lagoon

Quilotoa Crater Lake in Ecuador

Quilotoa Lagoon.

Do not recommend.

Never again.

Here’s the thing about my day trip to Quilotoa Lagoon in Ecuador: it was not a pleasant experience.

Our group reached the site and started the hike down to the crater lake. The guide said the hike down would take about 40 minutes to an hour, and I got down in about 45 minutes. This hike down wasn’t difficult, but some areas sloped more than others. I had to keep my knees bent while walking, and I was so worried about falling despite wearing hiking boots. There were a lot of people walking in both directions, and we also had to share the path with several stubborn mules and their poop.

The landscape during the hike down was stunning despite it being a hazy day at the site. Quilotoa is a dormant volcano in the Andes Mountains that had eight major eruptions in the past 200,000 years. The last eruption  was over 700 years ago and created the impressive caldera that is now filled with greenish water.

Once I reached the bottom of the lagoon, I was able to see more of the lake’s greenish color. A few people were jumping into the lake, while some others were kayaking. The water was cold, so only the wild and crazy teenaged boys were jumping into the lake. I took a seat on the bench to absorb it all, but not much time passed before I needed to head back up. One of the unfortunate points about booking a tour is that I didn’t have the time to explore at my own leisure, so I felt rushed. There wasn’t enough time for me to let it all sink in. Continue reading

Peru Won My Heart

I wasn’t expecting to fall in love with Peru, yet here we are. February was one of the worst months to visit certain areas of the country due to rainy season, but I booked the flights prior to knowing. When I discovered this, I got concerned. My research originally told me that it would be the perfect time to visit Lima, the only Peruvian city I planned to visit at the time. I later added some extra time to my visit, and was able to get to Cusco and Aguascalientes. Would you believe that I only experienced five minutes of rain my entire trip? The travel gods were on my side! Here were some of my highlights.


I didn’t have a bad meal in Peru. My notable favorites were Arroz con Mariscos and Ceviche at Cafe Morena in Cusco, and churros at LA73 in Lima. I had coca tea with every meal in Cusco because I was concerned with altitude sickness, but I transitioned to pisco sours with every meal once I reached the lower altitude in Lima! I enjoyed chifa (Chinese cuisine with a Peruvian twist), but I didn’t have the nerve to try cuy (guinea pig).


In Lima, I booked a street art tour of the Barranco neighborhood with Tailored Tours Peru. Brenda was a bright and fabulous guide who knew the history of the street art and the artists that completed the work. We wandered around Barranco, a hip neighborhood with bohemian vibes that some refer to as Lima’s Brooklyn. I loved the energy of the neighborhood and the art surrounding it. It was where I chose to stay in during my visit, and despite feeling safe while there, Barranco is still in progress. We witnessed a fight on one of the streets involving about three men and a woman, and a woman walked out of her home to make sure we knew to be careful with showing off our camera.

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A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

I won’t lie. Guadeloupe wasn’t on my radar at all. I was looking for something to replace my cancelled group trip to Haiti when the opportunity to visit the butterfly-shaped country came along. I spent a short time doing some preliminary research on it’s safety, how easy it was to navigate, and how expensive it would be to visit. Once I was comfortable with the information I received, I booked.

Guadeloupe is a part of the French West Indies, and is made up of several islands. Because of timing, I only visited Grand Terre, but I would love to return to visit other islands in the country – especially Basse Terre for the hiking and waterfalls.

My first day began early as I departed my Airbnb in Le Gosier and headed to Pointe des Châteaux, located at the southeast tip of Grand Terre. It was raining lightly when I arrived, which may have been the reason why there were so few people around. I didn’t expect any crowds, but I imagined that there would be more than a handful of other people. By the time I got out of my rental car and crossed the street to begin the trek to the hilltop, the rain had stopped. I reached the hilltop quickly and captured some of the most breathtaking views.

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Departing Pointe des Châteaux, I drove to St. Anne based on the recommendation of my Airbnb host. Apparently St. Anne beach is the place to be on Sundays, as the locals and tourists like to party all day long. I stopped at a local grocery store to purchase a baguette, cheese, and ham for my lunch on the beach, then found a spot at the beach to relax. I may have had Pointe des Châteaux mostly to myself, but that beach was full of French tourists and their Speedos. Although beautiful, St. Anne’s beach was a bit too touristy for me that day.

After baking in the sun for a few hours, I walked from the beach to the main road for the biggest event of the day – one of many parades that lead up to Carnaval. Undeniably, this was the highlight of my visit. Groups from all of the islands flocked to St. Anne for this celebration, and I can only imagine the energy on the day of Carnaval. The costumes were beautiful, the music was blasting, and everyone was having a great time. The parade went beyond nightfall and the party continued to Pointe-á-Pitre. Instead of following the crowd to the country’s largest city, I called it a night and headed back to Le Gosier.


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The next day began with a drive northward to Petit-Canal. Here was Les Marches Aux Esclaves, the March of Slaves. The monument commemorates the permanent abolition of slavery, but no current evidence can confirm that slaves walked from the slave ship and up those steps. The scene was powerful nonetheless. From the top of the steps, one can view the ocean just a short walk away.

A Quick Trip to GuadeloupeA Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

In my travels across the Americas, I find it interesting that damn-near every nation abolished slavery years before the United States did. Guadeloupe abolished slavery in 1794, but it was reinstated in 1802, despite a strong fight against the French by Louis Delgrès and his troops. Slavery wasn’t permanently banned there until 1848, but that’s still decades earlier the U.S. There location has a bust of Louis Delgrès to honor his fight against the French.

A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

On the way back from Petit-Canal, I came across a fascinating site – Cimetière de Morne-à-l’eau. This was a black and white, checkered cemetery near a roundabout in Morne-À-l’Eau, and I had to pull over because I had never seen anything quite like it. It was beginning to rain, so I snapped a few photos and headed back to my rental car.

A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

I made my way to Pointe-á-Pitre to stroll the streets and grab some dinner. The streets were narrow and it took me a while to find a parking spot. I eventually found a spot next to a man selling musical instruments made from a conch shell. Vendors in the main square were selling fresh produce, fish, and spices. I browsed the small shops selling clothing, shoes, and souvenirs. A few locals tried to start a conversation with me, but my French is nonexistent, and Google Translate was to much of a burden to even try to use. I just smiled.

A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

I noticed newly-opened Mémorial ACTe, a contemporary museum that focuses on the slave history of Guadeloupe and its indigenous peoples. It was closed that day, but I would have loved to visit. Overall, I left unimpressed with Pointe-á-Pitre, and relieved by the fact that I chose not to purchase lodging there. There was no particular reason for me to have those feelings, but it felt more lifeless than St. Anne or Le Gosier, despite being the biggest city.

The following day began lazily. It also ended lazily because that’s what one does on a gorgeous island. I lounged around my Airbnb for a while and chilled outside in a hammock before deciding to drive to the marina for a leisure stroll and lunch. Not to much was happening there, so I grabbed a few snacks, thought about going to the beach, decided against it, and headed back to my Airbnb for more hammocking.

A Quick Trip to Guadeloupe

My only regret about Guadeloupe is that I didn’t stay longer. Because the country wasn’t on my radar, I was unaware of the greatness that awaited me on the small island. A second visit is needed for me to spend more time gallivanting across each of the islands, and I would love to do it during Carnaval week.